from the French, with its vitality and its beautiful and charming women, daring and svelte, has influenced so many Paris designers and inspired so many of their ideas. The importance of the American woman on women's fashion is indisputable. But the fashions which remain fashions and which are accepted as such by the smart woman whether she lives in Paris, London or San Francisco, have their inception, as always, in Paris. It is also true that the preferences of the great American public are much influenced by the fashions of the cinema. The Holly wood influence is undeniable, and unfor tunately has created in America a widespread belief that to be smart you have to be over- decorated and overdone. The many and very clever American designers for the movies," however, have a different problem than that before the real creator of fashions. They design for a different purpose. Their designs should be effective for the screen and must please, primarily, the directors and the stars for whom they are intended. But you will find that among the aristocracy of smartness in America, at the main dress making houses in New York and other big cities, which know their business and realize what real smartness meansthese people support Paris, and have always done so, in the campaign for good taste. The Carnegies, the Goodmans, the Bendels, etc., who spend at least four seasons a year in Paris with a pleiad of artists, buyers and designers, are basing their very successful businesses on French taste. And certainly their own designs are based, also, on this idea and consequently have the flavour of sophisticated simplicity and chic. The leading American fashion magazines, the best in the world, exert great influence upon the current taste in that country. Their continuous effort is to present to the public the latest and best fashions in order to aid the latter in discriminating between the right and wrong. They are the link between the creator and the public and the main factor in the trade of fashion today. Their amazing variety, their inexhaustible imagination, is a continuous example of the rhythm of the present life and an inspiration for the future. Sports have had a great influence, also, on women's fashions of today. In this, England has played a great role. With her emphasis on freedom and outdoor life and her conception of what is comfortable and practical for sportswear, the Englishwoman has had a great influence on the French dressmaker's ideas of what is chic for all outdoor wear. In England itself the advance of fashion in the last two years has been extraordinary. Many of the new young English designers, prominent among them Hartnell and Stiebel, have shown sensation ally good collections and have raised to a very high point the standard of English fashions and English chic as well. Molyneux first and Schiaparelli afterwards, two of the fore most Paris creators, have opened houses in London with great success. London has been the centre of prosperity for the last two or three years, with its gaiety, its charming people, its atmosphere of wealth and well- being, its traditions, the Court and now its Jubilee season. This has all helped in this revival of luxury and has given a bright hope for the future of fashion. Louisboulanger, always brilliant and a true Parisian, has filled this taffeta evening costume with great chic and personality.

Commercial Art / Art and Industry en | 1935 | | page 277