m 91 Quiet family man into red hot agitator. fi THE CASUAL LOOK IV Tend On legs unused to any Le premier point ne sera pas sans influencer l'attitude des industriels ace a la publicité; le deuxième nous rappelle le nombre réduit de jeunes ■ens qui optent pour une carrière publicitaire au terme de leurs études •niversitaires ou artistiques. lis adhèrent a une nouvelle échelle de va- surs plus idéaliste, leurs craintes et leurs espérances sont différentes, St le succès se mesure pour beaucoup d'entre eux a l'autoréalisation plu- ot qu'aux marques extérieures du succès professionnel. Les jeunes ne sont pas seuls a penser ainsi. Nombre d'aïnés et même lertains gouvernements leur emboltent le pas pour combattre les effets ^ernicieux du manque de sincérité dans la présentation des qualités d'un xq Jin oroduit par la voie publicitaire. L'industrie a eu l'intelligence de suivre. Peut-être pas encore assez. tf LU\ is- R, 0i< 2 )D U£ c i li X Of ib. t£<] JIU Éi' i- rM la publicité un róle informateur au sein des médias qui, par principe, ont toujours été au service du public. Les récompenses décernées cette année et l'année dernière par le jury de Design Art Direction reftetent avec précision cette nouvelle attitude, partagée par l'industrie publicitaire. Les changements intervenant dans les structures commerciales vont également affect er la publicité. On peut s attendre a ce que les chaines de supermarchés se regroupent pour assurer 1 approvisionnement en produits essentiels tels que le pain, le sucre et autres denrées soumises aux fluctuations des récoltes de quelques grands pays producteurs. L'industrie est ainsi amenée a changer de position et a repenser ses attitudes. Malgré les progrès accomplis, nous avons encore fort a faire en Grande-Bretagne pour en arriver aux réalisations hollandaises du Tel Design Group de La Haye par exemple, qui soulignent le röle de la publi cité comme service public et font oublier son caractère parfois nuisible. Is now the only unforgiven sin. Once we were football kings. Now (dismal scene!) We are not in the World Cup last sixteen (Though this decline, alas, was not because We played all gaily and defied such laws.) Is all then lost Shall England toe the line And hard-edged zones of 'work' and 'sport' define. And seek, like others in the EEC In both a cold, supreme efficiency Ahl We came first (though now we're running late) To look on leisure as a sportive state And show in dress the scope of our intent. The bowler hat proclaims the city gent Who all weekend about the country roams Wearing a back-and-front, like Sherlock Holmes, A hat designed for stalking Scottish deer, Though Haywards be the only Heath Inspire, O Muse sartorial, this song About our fear of wearing something wrong; Show doubters, in this free-and-easy day When informality is here to stay, The splendid oxymoron of our dress, A formal informality, no less! But, ere descanting on what wear doth please The Briton dressing for his hours of ease Show how mistaken was the oft-held When Rt. Hon. Bevan, in a suit of blue Waited upon his Queen, that something died And England started on her downward slide. That Minister of Health, who felt the To help democracy by wearing serge And hoped to see a wild idea take root- The abolition of the morning suit Must surely marvel, from th'Elysian shade. To see more men that ever thus arrayed At every wedding with pretence to taste In morning suit behold the bridegroom graced. On each long hair-do, an absurd top hat (What would Aneurin Bevan make of that}) One English firm will never make a loss, Those well-known hirers-out, the brothers Moss. The Briton knows that all about him lies A world where bridegrooms seem to wear black ties (He sees their wedding photos; horrid P sight! Can all their weddings be performed at night But here, no matter what the world may think A red tail coat is known as hunting pink. Note how the Briton (who invented sport) Gave each game clothing of a special sort Not uniforms, but with more subtle air. Mere adaptations of his common wear Thus, he plays cricket on the village green Beneath tall elms, a timeless summer Where squire (stockbroker) and rude peasant (clerk) Ply subtle skills from 2 p.m. till dark All dressed in garb unknown across the Channel White shirts, white boots, and trousers of white flannel Elegant game, in which the last disgrace is Trousers not white (or even worse, with braces) I Consider bowls, where over greens are rolled Expensive spheres, by persons growing old, More cunning with each year; observe the Skip In flannels never baggy on his hip And crested blaxer, which could well be worn (And is) in pubs on any Sabbath morn. (The ladies' dresses Now, no longer on an isle marooned See Britain to a sterner world attuned Where sport,'a function of the sovereign State Has better things to do than re-create. In many forecasts for the human race Leisure assumes an ever higher place And think-tank men, in tones of gloom and woe Tell us a thing we all knew years ago That now we have these shorter working hours To reap their benefit's beyond our powers If, with spare time our fathers never knew We only say 'I can't think what to do!' Here's the revenge of our technology; Leisure itself become an industry, An academic subject, with degrees, For those who teach us to enjoy our ease. Now leisure almost has to be defined As needing clothing specially designed; Thus, ski-ing now can simply not be done (Although invented by Sir Arnold Lunn In days when no one seemed to feel the need For anything but good old British tweed) By anyone unable to be dressed In ski-pants, boots, windcheater, and the rest. Rock-climbing now is never done by halves They roll down special socks that show their calves; And people now who mess about in boats towards brilliant nylon orange coats, n this new world mere pleasure in the game Makes modern players hang their heads in shame In sport, like economics, not to win This is the land, of field and tree and hedge, Where life and sport own no dividing edge. Where men, not following fanatic creeds, For one thing do care stilltheir well-cut tweeds And come what may, though Heaven itself be shook, Still try to keep that English Casual Look. Paul Jennings always cut like that Are crowned, too, by a kind of trilby hat.) Though 'anyone for tennis is a phrase Now used to cover all those pre-war plays Where maids were comic on the telephone And men's dress clothes weren't Moss Bros, but their own There still survives about our leisure wear Some trace residual of the open air Thus 'hacking jackets', double vent at back. Are worn by thousands who will never hack with twill', kind of horse.) At soccer, see what hats and scarves are worn Striped for the team to which support is sworn (More ways than one!), and hear the lusty cheers From men who haven't kicked a ball for 325

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